How to install board and batten siding

how to install board and batten siding

Board and Batten Siding

May 31,  · In some areas it is common to attach vertical 1x2 furring strips before installing board-and-batten siding. If your sheathing is not solid plywood or OSB, these strips are needed to provide a nailing surface. Attach strips around windows and doors, then lay out and attach horizontal strips every 16 inches. Nail the strips to framing ctcwd.com Time: 24 hrs. Preparing the Area First of all, if your boards and battens aren’t already colored, stain or paint them. Next, make sure your home is ready for installation. Remove any rotten boards you find and secure any loose boards or Scrape away any old caulking around your windows and doors so that your.

Board and batten siding offers a rustic charm to homes, cabins, garages, and more. Here, our siding installation experts explain how to install board and batten siding:. Website by the Prager Microsystems, Inc. Digital Marketing Agency. Apr 25 - View Today's Specials. The do it yourself resource for homeowners from home improvement professionals. Next, make sure your home is ready for installation. Remove any rotten boards you find and secure any loose boards or wood trim. Scrape away any old caulking around your how to install a gfci and doors so that your new siding will sit flush against the walls.

Remove any moldings, downspouts, or lighting fixtures that may get in the way of your new board and batten siding installation. After that, install your drip edge. For this, you can simply use a piece of metal flashing. Once it is, install two nails at the top of the board and two nails at the bottom to secure it. Install your next board the same way as the first board and continue down the side of your home until you reach the other corner. Make sure to measure above and below any windows you may have and cut your boards to the appropriate size to install above and below them.

Next, starting at one corner of your home, place your batten over the gap between your boards. Need help with this project? We have trained professionals that can help. Contact us today. Fitzpatrick, Inc. Policies Service Area Sitemap.

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• With Everlast Board & Batten siding, allow for 1/4” of movement at the top of the panel when measuring. • Position the first nail at the top of the bottom-most nail slot. This will help with letting the siding hang in place and allow panels the to rest at the bottom of trim. • Center the remaining fasteners in the slots. PANEL INSTALLATION.

Board and batten siding is a terrific exterior siding system. If you are looking for a great alternative to traditional siding, consider board and batten. Board and batten siding is thought to have originated in Norway and Sweden, where it was used to protect the exterior of log buildings. The technique was brought to the United States in the mid to late s becoming popular on homes and barns in the Western United States.

Today, board and batten siding has regained popularity in the United States do in part to the rise of retro-modern style architecture. So, what is board and batten siding? Board and batten is a fairly simple exterior siding system of gaped wide vertical boards with overlying vertical battens covering the gaps between the boards. The technique is time-tested and durable, as the system allows for the natural expansion and contraction of the siding material. While traditional board and batten siding uses wide boards and narrow overlying battens, there are variations of the traditional narrow over wide technique.

Reverse board and batten or batten and board, for example, installs wide boards over narrow battens. For our install we went with traditional board and batten siding, wide boards with overlying narrow battens.

Secure these boards using fasteners fasteners placed at the center of the siding boards. Centering the fasteners allows the boards to expand and contract without bowing or splitting see diagram below.

After the boards are installed, cover the gaps between the boards with narrow battens. Secure the battens with centered fasteners passed through the gaps between the boards without passing through the boards.

Installed correctly, the battens cover the gaps between the boards and hold down their edges without restricting the boards movements under the battens. This technique allows the boards to freely expand and contract with humidity and temperature changes without cracking.

Installing board and batten siding, like any vertical siding, presents the challenges of fastening vertical siding boards to vertically framed stud walls. Boards installed up and down vertically do not regularly intersect stud framing members like horizontally installed boards do. This issue was traditionally solved by adding horizontal framing pieces between studs called blocking, then attaching the vertical to the installed blocking. While this method works, installing blocking is a lot of work and may be impractical for remodeling.

Blocking also reduces the space in the wall cavity for insulation and can make it hard to run wires and plumbing in the walls. Alternatively, you can fasten vertical siding boards directly to the wall sheathing you are using. This method relies on using screws driven into sufficiently thick wooden wall sheathing, i. The existing original sheathing on our cabin was a dense cellulose fiberboard, limiting my options to removing the fiberboard and installing either horizontal blocking or sufficiently thick plywood or OSB sheathing.

The thicker plywood sheathing allowed me to fasten the board and batten siding directly to the plywood sheathing with screws and the plywood provided a big structural upgrade for my walls. I no longer had to worry about hitting the framing studs with the fasteners. If using this technique of screwing directly into the exterior wall sheathing, be sure to using thick enough plywood or OSB.

If using nails to fasten your siding, no matter what you plan to nail them into, use exterior-grade nails designed specifically for installing the wood siding, like exterior-grade ring-shank or spiral shank style nails for siding.

Nails should also be compatible with the specific wood species you are using. Some woods will react with certain fasteners causing discoloration at the fastener site.

Stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized nails are typically the best choices. Many siding nails will have specially designed tips to help prevent the splitting of the siding.

Remember to add length for any material like furring strips or rain screen mat between the siding and sheathing. If you use screws as I did, look for an exterior grade screw stainless or coated compatible with the wood species you will be using.

Most deck screws will work well. Screws need to be long enough to pass through the siding and into a suitable solid wood, plywood or OSB sheathing substrate of sufficient thickness. If you are planning on using nails, they should be marked as for siding and either hot-dipped galvanized steel or stainless steel.

Board and batten siding can be constructed from a variety of materials. Wood, engineered wood products, fiber cement boards, and polymer vinyl products are all suitable materials for board and batten siding.

Of these, fiber cement boards and natural wood boards are excellent choices, and both have advantages and disadvantages. Fiber cement board products HardiePanel, etc. Natural wood boards have the advantages of wood; natural beauty, the ability to take a stain, improved sound and thermal insulation and ease of cutting and installation. Cement board products also have the disadvantages of concrete; heavyweight, difficult to cut and install, silica dust formation when cutting, and an artificial look.

Wood products have the disadvantages of wood; dimensional instability, tenancy to crack or split, need for repeat staining, susceptibility to woodpeckers, insects, and rot, and the lack of fire resistance. I chose natural cedar for my board and batten siding. The natural beauty of wood and the durability of cedar made it an easy choice for me.

Unfortunately, the recent increases in the price of natural cedar may make this material cost-prohibitive to use. Other locally milled wood species may be more cost-friendly compared to cedar.

No matter the type of wood you choose, all-natural wood products are susceptible to moisture and rot. While several species of wood have naturally enhanced protection against moisture and decay, all will benefit from the protection of an applied stain or paint. If you plan to paint or stain your siding, consider finishing all six sides front, back, and both ends prior to installing them. Finishing only the exposed surfaces of installed siding allows moisture into the unfinished surfaces of the boards.

This can lead to paint or stain durability problems and warping, cracking and twisting of the siding boards and battens. In addition, if you plan to use a solid color stain or paint, a base primer coat may be beneficial. Properly applied finishes take time. Applying a coat or two of primer, allowing it to dry and then applying a coat or two of finish is a long process. Not only is this time-consuming, but the quality of the finish is very dependent on the conditions, tools, products, and process used to apply any primer or finish.

One excellent alternative to finishing your siding material yourself, it to buy the siding materials prefinished. Yes, it will probably cost more, but for many, the time saved and the quality of the finish is worth the additional cost. I found the price of ordering prefinished fairly competitive with the cost of what I could get the unfinished wood for locally.

And, its hard to overstate just how awesome it is to receive a shipment of factory finished wood ready to install. Ordering prefinished material saves a ton of time, and the siding is sealed with a professionally applied, factory-controlled finish.

The supplier I ordered from also recommends a field coat of finish over the exposed surfaces after the product is installed.

Again, a fairly easy step — especially when compared to painting rough cedar from scratch. The field coat of finish also seals your fasteners, enhancing the durability of the siding. Their factory applies a Cabot finish of your choice — for us, a latex solid stain applied over a solvent-based primer.

The product was shipped via semi-trailer truck and arrived well packed, undamaged and ready to install. The quality of the finish on the wood was exceptional. I highly recommend them. A rainscreen is a system of wall building to help control moisture within the wall assembly. Rainscreen walls separate the weather-resistant barrier house wrap, asphalt felt, etc. The rainscreen wall aims to address moisture problems all to common with modern air-tight construction materials and techniques.

This style of wall construction worked well with older, more air-permeable home construction and was typical of residential construction for most of the last century. In reality, all exterior walls will eventually leak, and the rainscreen wall provides a way for them to dry when they do get wet. Rainscreen wall construction originated in Norway as a method to protect exterior walls from driving rains. Walls constructed in this way not only protect the inner wall from the weather but are designed to dry out once wet.

Vented rain screen walls allow any penetrated water to drain down and out of the wall and air to freely flow up the rainscreen wall cavity, helping dry the wall assembly. The air space also provides a pressure and capillary break within the wall, interrupting water as it attempts to move through the wall. Building a rain screen wall system requires a bit of additional work when compared to traditional techniques, but the reward is a long-lasting, healthy exterior wall.

We have had our rainscreen board and batten siding for nearly 10 years and it looks brand new. To construct a vented rain screen wall, add a vented air space between the redundant barrier — that is the weather-resistant barrier WRB and siding. See the layers below:. The air space in a rain screen wall system is the key to the rain screen wall. This air space within the rain screen wall can be created by a variety of methods:. Furring strips are thin strips of wood or other material that are installed vertically to lift the siding off the weather-proof barrier covered sheathing.

Furring strips work well with horizontally installed siding and therefore not well with board and batten siding. Some manufacturers create a vented furring strip intended to be installed horizontally, allowing for easy use with vertical siding. Rainscreen spacer mats provide another method of creating a vented airspace. These thick, permeable mats are installed over the WRB and create an air-space under the siding material. I used a spacer mat product by Keene called Driwall Rainscreen for this project.

In addition to helping to keep walls dry, rain screen wall construction can help protect your weather-resistant barrier WRB. Many weather-resistant barriers degrade after exposure to certain tannins and wood extracts. Separating the WRB from the siding boards via a rain-screen wall design may help limit contact of the two.

Textured or Wrinkled House Wraps. Certain specialty house wraps are also marketed to serve as an all-in-one WRB and air space mat. These are typically house wraps with a textured or raised surface to create a slight gap between the wrap and the overlying siding.

Once you have settled on the details of your wall reconstruction and installed the weather-resistant barrier and optional vented air space, the final task is to install the siding boards. To install your siding, you will need sufficient access to your walls.

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