How to build a scale model

how to build a scale model

Build great scale models, Part 3

Aug 30,  · How to Make a Scale Model Step 1. Measure the dimensions of each aspect of the object you are modeling. This can be done by using a tape measure Step 2. Scale the dimensions down to model size. This is accomplished by dividing the length by a consistent number. Step 3. Draw a plan for your model. Author: Eric Benac. Feb 07,  · A scale model is a three-dimensional representation of a physical object. The model scale is most often expressed as a simple fraction: 1/24 scale means the model is 1/24 the size of the full-size subject. In other words, in 1/24 scale you would need 24 Chevy models parked bumper to bumper to equal the length of one Chevrolet. Like any fraction with 1 for a numerator, the greater the.

Last Updated: April 17, References. This article was co-authored by our trained team byild editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. There are 20 references cited in this article, which can be found at what to bring to college dorms bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 23, times.

Learn more A well-made model building can complete a diorama for a school project, add background detail to a model train set, or help you previsualize a complex construction project. Piecing together your own model buildings is easier than you might think—in most cases, all you need is a plan and a few simple, inexpensive materials. Start by drafting up a basic design for your building, then trace its individual planes onto your material of choice and cut them out by hand.

Warning: Be careful and bjild close attention anytime you pick up your utility knife. The blade will be extremely sharp, and even the slightest slip could result in accident or injury. Tip: Gluing is one of the most go parts of model-building, but also one of the most important. Take your time and make sure builr seam and connection is as clean and precise as possible. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers.

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Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Part 1 of All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Decide what kind of building you want to make. Before you actually begin putting together your model building, you need to have a clear sense of what it will look like.

If you can envision it, you can build it. A simple house, barn, or other traditional structure will be the easiest to create on your first attempt. As your skills scals, you might try your hand at elaborate mansions, skyscrapers, castles, and other types of buildings.

Sketch your building from multiple angles. Sit down with a pencil and a sheet of paper and create a rough rendering of your building showing what it will look like from each side. Make sure you include at least one view of the roof, along with any other prominent design features. To build a miniaturized replica with accurate dimensions and proportions, start by finding the height and width of the building you want to model. Trace each individual plane of your building onto a sheet of heavy cardstock.

Some of these materials may vary in terms of cost and durability, but all are soft enough to cut and shape easily. Part 2 of Run the sca,e of your knife carefully along the outlines you drew earlier using a metal ruler or straight edge as a guide. Rather than trying to force the blade through the material, use light pressure and make multiple passes, gently snapping the piece free by hand afterwards.

Score openings like doors and windows to make them easier to punch out. Start with the tip of your knife inside one corner of the outline and drag it slowly to the opposite corner, stopping just before it reaches the perpendicular line. Then, turn your material, reset your knife, and score the next side of the outline.

Scoring your doors and windows in this way will also produce cleaner openings, since you won't be over-cutting into the surrounding material. Fold or score the roof make your roof from a single piece of material. It can be difficult to neatly piece together a roof from lots of small pieces. A much simpler solution is to draw an additional line onto the outline for your roof piece where the two sides will come together, then fold the cardstock along the line to form the point of the roof.

This technique works best for builv gable, gambrel, and skillion roofs made up of only a couple planes. Change out the blade on your utility knife as soon as it gets dull. The friction of cutting and scoring will begin to dull your cutting tool after a while. Some newer blades come loaded with pre-notched blades, which make it possible to snap off what time does aventura mall open on sunday dull section and extend a brand new, ultra-sharp tip.

Part 3 of Glue your model together where its various planes meet. Apply a thin strip of high-hold craft glue or a similar adhesive to the edges of your first piece. Line up the glued edge with the corresponding edge of the neighboring piece and press and hold the two edges together.

Allow the glue to dry for seconds before letting go and moving on to the next piece. Apply a thin layer of clay to the outer surface of now model optional.

Press small lumps of soft modeling clay onto the skeleton of your structure, working in 3—4 in 7. Be careful not to crush, bend, or otherwise damage the underlying material. Any type of standard modeling or air dry clay will work just fine for most projects. Be sure to select a neutral color if you intend to paint your finished model. Carve textures and fine details into the clay with your utility knife.

Hold the knife the way you would a pen or pencil and use the point of the blade to etch masonry modwl, staggered board lines, or tiny brickwork patterns. Paint your finished model for added realism. A detailed paint job will give your model a more lifelike quality.

To do this, place the model in the oven on its lowest setting for minutes at a time, allowing jow oven to cool completely between rounds to prevent the clay from burning. Continue in this way until it feels dry and solid to the touch. Acrylic, tempera, or poster paint is usually the best choice for applying to clay.

Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. A good CAD program or piece of 3D design software can come in handy for drafting detailed building designs.

Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. For a more polished-looking final product, consider hiring a 3D printing business to fabricate the individual pieces of your building.

Another option is to have them shaped by a local laser cutting service or sign-making shop for greater precision. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Related wikiHows How to. How to. More References About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: April 17, Categories: Model Buildings. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 23, times. With this website I was able to create my model of a university, and we won 1st place.

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Step 1: Draw Plans

A time-lapse video showing the step by step processes of scale model making. - Editing and designing the project drawings for model making in the required sc. Mar 18,  · Have you ever asked, "How do I build a scale model of my own house?"This video shows you how to create your own model. I'll show you the process I use to get. Sep 15,  · Scale Model House: In this instructable I will show you how to build a 1/64 scale model house. the way you cut the craft sticks determines how the house will look, I used wire cutters because thats all I had to cut it with so its crooked in some places. What you wil.

Welcome to the world of scale modeling: This is the third of four articles introducing you to a great hobby. In the last installment, we showed you some of the basic tools you need to build a model. When you open the kit box, inspect the contents and take inventory.

Most kit instructions have a parts map you can compare to the sprues parts trees to make sure everything is there. In other words, take a few practice cuts before swinging away.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a simple model built well. Plastic injection-molded parts may still have traces of manufacturing oils or grease by the time they get to you. Leave the parts on the sprues and wash them in warm, soapy water; a few drops of dish detergent will do the trick. Scrub gently with a soft brush an old toothbrush is the usual , rinse thoroughly, and let the parts air-dry. Notice that most kits label the sprues by letter; this will help you locate parts as you follow the instructions.

Use clippers to cut not twist parts from the sprue parts tree. Cut as close as you can to the part. Be careful to cut only excess plastic, not molded detail or locating pins. Clip parts from the sprue only as you need them. Is there any remnant of the sprue? Are there raised lines or other irregularities left over from the molding process?

Sand away mold lines and any other irregularities on the part before gluing it. If the part has ejector-pin marks little circles made as the sprue is ejected from the mold , you may have to use filler to repair them. More on that shortly. When you are satisfied with the pieces to be joined, test-fit them without glue to make sure they go together as they should. Lightly sand mating surfaces for a better bond. Then, choose your glue.

A little dab of tube glue can help you tack pieces in place. However, liquid styrene cement is neater and more efficient. Apply it sparingly with a small, fine brush: Join two pieces, load the brush with a minimal amount of cement, and merely touch the join. Capillary action will pull the cement out of the brush and into the join, where it will melt and fuse the plastic mating surfaces.

Some kits contain resin and photoetched-metal pieces. Styrene cement will not work on those materials. Instead, use super glue or epoxy: The former is less messy, but the latter works well for joining large, relatively rough surfaces. Beware of letting epoxy seep out of a join, though — it is tough stuff to sand off. If you are a modeler returning after decades away from the hobby, you will be surprised by what kits look like now. Each has unique characteristics that require slightly different techniques: Resin is heavier, more brittle, and may require more sanding and filling than injection-molded plastic; white-metal castings often used for landing gear may require metal files for cleanup; and bending or folding photoetched metal is much easier with additional specialized tools.

Using liquid styrene cement, you will be able to join most parts simply by applying the glue. However, larger assemblies, such as a tank hull, aircraft fuselage, or a wing, may need additional persuasion to fit well and eliminate seams.

Now, as the plastic melts, you can press the halves together and see molten plastic ooze out of the seam. This is good, as it fills the join for the desired seamless appearance.

Before the glue is dry, clamp the halves together with modeling clamps, clothespins, or even rubber bands. Be careful not to get glue on the rubber bands, though; styrene cement can melt them or, worse yet, run along their edges and mar nearby surfaces. When you tighten the clamp on the fuselage halves, more molten glue will ooze out.

After clamps are applied to an assembly, check to make sure everything is receiving the right amount of pressure. Then leave it alone for 24 hours to make sure the glue is dry before proceeding. Returning modelers may also remember discovering that styrene cement will fog up clear parts. Additionally, if a kit supplies resin and photoetched-metal parts for the interior, and the interior is covered by a canopy or windshield, the fumes from the super glue required for interior assembly can fog up the glass.

You can protect clear plastic with a clear coat. Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface or PFM for short is an acrylic clear that adds brilliance and clarity to the clear plastic and protects it from those pernicious fumes. Submerge the clear plastic in Future, pull it out, and drag it along a paper towel to wick off excess. Then let it dry dust-free for at least 24 hours even better, You can even use a little more Future to attach the clear parts.

Effective seam-filling is key to a realistic model. The best way to eliminate a seam is to sand or carefully slice off the plastic that oozed out when you glued it. But a long seam like a fuselage join will probably have gaps where the seam is not filled. Modelers all have their favorite fillers.

Many use super glue, either the standard thin viscosity great for running along fuselage seams or gap-filling for larger gaps. If you fill with super glue, sand it before it cures. A solvent-based filler, Squadron Green Putty can be scooped and smoothed before it hardens. However, it shrinks when it dries. Also, it stinks to high heaven and, in fact, contains toluene, a toxic irritant. Two-part epoxy putty, such as Milliput, has more body and is easy to sculpt before it cures.

However, after curing is much tougher to sand smooth. A water-soluble counterpart is Apoxie Sculpt two-part putty. Then there are several water-based or relatively inert fillers, such as Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic, which work well.

And in the FineScale Modeler mail basket are several do-it-yourself-type accounts from people claiming success with wall-joint compound, spackle, even Liquid Paper correction fluid. Whatever you choose for a filler, the idea is to fill the gap or imperfection and, once the material is in an optimal state, sand it smooth so the repair disappears underneath a coat of paint. As you work off the excess filler, use progressively finer grits so that when you are finished no scratches are visible.

Surface treatments such as Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer can take you to the last step by filling in fine scratches and sanding smooth for the desired finish.

After you have filled and sanded a seam smooth, you can check your work by dragging a toothpick across it. If the pick catches, the seam needs more work. If the area feels smooth, wipe it down with alcohol, Testors Plastic-Prep, or even a little bit of water to remove sanding dust. Use an old toothbrush to remove dust from panel lines and other recesses, and wipe the model down again until you are sure the surface is clean before applying primer.

Primer may reveal slight imperfections. Apply more filler, sand it, wipe it down, and prime again. Repeat as necessary. Remember, perfection most often comes from correction. Take the time to make it right. Patience is a virtue that helps build better models! Next time: Build great scale models, Part 4: Finishing with paint and decals. When you subscribe to FineScale Modeler magazine , you can register at www. We're celebrating 35 years!

Subscribe now and celebrate with us! Login or Register. Subscriber Benefits Why Join? Accurate Miniatures B F4U-5 Corsair in Honduran markings. Snapshot: Add non-skid texture the easy way. Understanding model scale. Zvezda Sukhoi Su Felon. Airfix Cromwell Mk.

Building and Detailing Aircraft. Desert War Modeling. Subscribe Renew Digital Gift. COM Enter keywords or a search phrase below: Search. February 7, A straight-edge razor can help with parts that are hard to reach with clippers. Prepare the parts When you open the kit box, inspect the contents and take inventory.

Decide which glue will do A little dab of tube glue can help you tack pieces in place. Resin parts, such as these True Detail aircraft wheels, need extra attention to clean off manufacturing residue. Bleche-Wite tire cleaner does the job well, but be sure to wear hand and eye protection — this is strong stuff!

Some photoetched-metal parts must be folded to shape.

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